DIY : Make your own solid shampoo

Solid shampoos are becoming more and more popular and many stores provide them. But if you are in this more ecological and respectful approach of your skin, maybe you would like to make your own solid shampoo? If so, this article is for you.

Why a solid shampoo? 

The main purpose of a shampoo is to clean the hair and scalp, but it is clear that most "classic" shampoos contain many allergenic and irritating ingredients, and natural shampoos, although healthier, are no less polluting because of their packaging. 

Solid shampoos have many advantages. First of all, they are made of natural ingredients, without sulfates, parabens or silicone, making them healthier. Moreover, they do not require the use of conditioner. They are also more effective than industrial silicone shampoos, actually nourishing the hair rather than "coating" it. Just like "classic" shampoos, solid shampoos can be tailored to your hair type. They are also cheap and last longer than other shampoos. And finally, what we are interested in here, they can be made yourself, easily and quickly.

Solid shampoo: focus on natural ingredients!

If you want to make your own solid shampoo, it couldn't be easier, just find the right ingredients for your hair type. Although some of them have to be ordered on the internet, most of them can be found quite easily in organic stores. Try to choose organic, biodegradable, environmentally friendly and natural products. 

The first ingredient you'll need is a surfactant that helps solidify the shampoo. It also cleans and lathers. It is the only chemical ingredient in the recipe, and although often criticized, it is indispensable. However, make sure that it does not exceed 60% of the recipe. However, in order to avoid sulfates, it is recommended to use the mildest surfactants such as Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI), which is a derivative of coconut oil. This one comes in powder form, which does not irritate the scalp and is environmentally friendly. Avoid SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate), which is irritating, or SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate), which is not only irritating, but also potentially carcinogenic. 

The second ingredient you'll need is a mineral or vegetable powder. You can choose it according to your hair type. For oily hair, opt for clay, burdock or rhassoul powder. For damaged hair or dandruff, you can use nettle powder. Shikakai, ayurvedic powder is useful for promoting hair growth and for dark hair. If your hair is difficult to detangle, you can use marshmallow powder. To keep your hair soft and supple, use orange powder. Sidr powder will be very useful for blond hair, itching or dandruff. 

Always make sure that the vegetable powders represent 10% of your product.

Vegetable oils or butters, meanwhile, will account for 20 to 25% of your recipe. It protects and repairs your hair and scalp and adds shine. As with mineral or vegetable powders, oils and butters can be adapted to each specific need. For dry hair, opt for coconut oil, which is very nourishing, or sweet almond oil, shea butter or argan oil. If your hair tends to get oily quickly, use jojoba oil and if it is damaged, use borage or castor oil to optimize repair. Broccoli oil is useful for curly hair and avocado and castor oil help fight hair loss. The chaulmoogra oil is used to eliminate dandruff. 

Essential oils are used for their virtues but be aware that they are not essential to the recipe. If you wish, add 20 drops to your shampoo. Here are some examples: 

  • Dull and brittle hair: Rosewood, lemon, geranium or noble laurel. 
  • Dry hair: Ylang-ylang or sweet orange. 
  • Greasy hair: Tea-tree, geranium, lavender or palmarossa. 

However, be careful, as essential oils are highly concentrated, it is important to handle them with care and their use should be avoided by pregnant and breastfeeding women and children under 6 years old.

Water or floral water (hydrolat), dissolves the surfactant that is insoluble in oil. If you wish to add virtues to your shampoo, use floral water at a rate of 15% of the preparation.

Recipe for solid shampoo to make at home

  • A silicone mold in the shape of your choice
  • 60g of SCI surfactant (available at Aroma Zone)
  • 10ml of water
  • 20g vegetable oil or butter
  • 10g of mineral or vegetable powder
  • 20 drops of essential oil 
  • Melt the surfactant with the water and coconut oil in a water bath, stirring constantly with a spatula. 
  • Add the clay powder. 
  • Remove from heat and add the essential oils.
  • Place in a mold, packing well and let harden for 24 hours.
  • SCI surfactant is quite volatile, so wear a mask as a precaution and make sure to ventilate the room you are in. 

Tips for using solid shampoo

Lather the solid shampoo between your hands and apply the lather to wet hair. The most important thing is to lather it on the scalp. The tips will receive the shampoo through your hand movements. If you prefer, you can rub the shampoo directly into your hair. Rinse well. 

Avoid washing your hair too regularly or it will quickly become greasy.

To keep your shampoo in the best conditions, remember to dry it on a wooden soap dish or a dry washcloth. 

It's up to you! With solid shampoos, not only are you protecting your skin from toxic agents, but you are also protecting the planet. So why wait?

Sarah Garny 8 October, 2019
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